What does “increases circulation” really mean regarding the health of the skin?
Why is lymphatic flow and circulation such a necessary function for skin wellness?
What are we circulating?
How do stillness and tension versus massage melting help promote circulation?
Tap into this episode (and your skin) for all the divine and skin glowing details!
xo - Kassandra
(Corneo-what?) The “First Do No Harm” Approach to Anti-Aging
One aspect of Evoq’s skin philosophy stems from the research from Professor Albert Kligman who is widely regarded as the father of cosmeceuticals, yet he was also well known for his pioneering work on corneotherapy.
Corneotherapy is the care and treatment of the stratum corneum, the skin’s topmost layer and its principal barrier defence. The stratum corneum is responsible for environmental protection while preventing water loss through the skin.
An event that occurs on its surface can initiate a domino effect that sends ripples throughout the rest of the skin. It is well-established that the skin contains entire sets of barrier defence systems – all interconnected, co-regulated, and interdependent – like cogwheels in a machine. If one barrier function is compromised, other systems are also affected.
As such, we treat it with respect by recommending a slower approach to skin correction. We do not promote aggressive modalities or radical procedures that shock the skin into a temporary state of repair to restore appearance (such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion, or improper use of lasers).
Corneotherapy takes the science of cosmeceuticals one step further. It could be argued that corneotherapy is the skin care concept of the future. It’s where science meets beauty. Another way of thinking of it is that it provides the link between dermatology and cosmetics.
An understanding of the role of the stratum corneum is key to the principles of corneotherapy. Essentially skin cannot be corrected if the stratum corneum is not in equilibrium. Many clinicians use treatments on their clients without first ascertaining the level of cellular damage or the condition of the bi-layers of the skin. This can result in expensive, repeat treatments that do not obtain the desired results or may even fail completely.
Corneotherapy approaches skin care differently. Before any treatment or products are prescribed, a thorough examination of the condition of the bi-layers of the skin is undertaken. It is important during this process not to upset the acid mantle, but rather give it what it needs to maintain harmony.
Then, and only then, can you give it the ‘super food’ via advanced pure products, that it needs.
Corneotherapy treatment is centred on recovery of the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum, once seen as a layer of ‘dead’ cells whose sole function was to provide an impermeable barrier, has suddenly come ‘alive’. While the stratum corneum consists of cells not capable of dividing and multiplying, it is far from being static tissue. Rather, it is dynamic and complex.
When the skin’s barrier is disrupted, it is no longer protected from environmental stressors and pollution and loses its ability to protect and defend itself. If perfumes, emulsifiers and mineral oils are added to skin care products, the skin can quickly become further compromised.
Among the obviously harmful substances are surfactants, emulsifiers, preservatives and allergenic perfume substances.
Kligman had a clever way of describing corneotherapy as being like an “outside- in” therapy, where “outside” is the stratum corneum and “in” are the therapeutic effects starting in the stratum corneum and working their way into the deeper layers.
As Dr Kligman once said: “Whenever you see inflamed skin, regardless of its cause, it means that the stratum corneum is leaky and permeable. But, if you repair the stratum corneum, that tells the underlying tissues that they don’t have to keep reacting like there’s danger in the environment.”
At Evoq - I couldn’t agree more and believe we have developed a unique and effective range of treatments and products to restore balance to the stratum corneum and promote ongoing healthy, energetic balanced skin.
Corneotherapy and Aging
“A curious thing about ageing is that everyone knows what it looks like, but no one seems to know what it is.”
Maintaining a healthy and functioning barrier provides overall protection against dehydration, the penetration of germs, allergens, irritants, oxidative stress, and excessive ultra violet radiation. Application of products based on the theories of corneotherapy supports a gradual healing of any inflammation and other conditions that impair the barrier function. As stated earlier, there is a lessening of the cell function in aging skin. Nevertheless, we know that we can make both external and internal adjustments to alter the affects of the aging process. This indeed supports cell functioning and repair with improved immune response and rebuilding of the skin barrier.
Skin care products should be formulated with mimetic agents that compliment the skin. The dermal membrane structure in the barrier layers of the stratum corneum consists of ceramides, cholesterol and palmitic acid.6 They are naturally found in the skin bilayers that are responsible for maintaining the natural moisturizing factors (NMF) and continued regenerating of a strong skin defence. A resilient barrier increases the probability that the underlying skin structures are able to function correctly. Based on the research of Professor A. Kligman, moisturizing substances may contribute to stabilising the skin barrier leading to greater results.6 He called it Corneotherapy: “outside to inside” therapy.
“Whenever you see inflamed skin, regardless of cause, the stratum corneum is leaky and permeable. But, if you repair the stratum corneum, that tells the underlying tissues that they don’t have to keep reacting like there’s danger in the environment.”
Skin requires supporting substances for regeneration. In ageing skin this becomes a key factor in compensating for the biological changes that occur within the cells during each phase of aging. A key to corneotherapy is to recognize and eliminate substances that can inhibit/interfere with this regeneration process.
For safe skin care that focuses on skin health first - with a anti-aging underlying solution based formula, head over to http://www.evoqbeauty.com and learn our philosophy and why skin professionals are turning back to a more holistic approach to skin care and aging.
All my love!
Is Micro Needling Better Than Chemical Peels?
A client emailed and asked me this question: "Do you feel that needling is better than chemical peels?"
More and more women are engaging in harsh chemical peels at home - with no advanced knowledge on how the skin works and how to optimize its repair mechanisms.
I thought this was an excellent question to address because with so many people talking about these skin rejuvenating treatments and mixed messages, it can be quite confusing.
Micro-needling and chemical peels are two different modalities used for various purposes. It's like comparing apples to bread.
Not everyone needs micro-needling, and not everyone is a suitable candidate for chemical peels.
What Is Micro-needling or Dermarolling?
Micro-needling, skin needling (or dermal rolling) was used initially as a clinical treatment for improving and reducing post-acne scarring. It works by breaking down existing scarred tissues with fine needles which stimulate the skin healing and rejuvenating process.
Over the past few years, it has become a popular modality for reducing the appearance of aging, lines, wrinkles and tightening the skin.
The process is called Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT). Micro-needling stimulates collagen synthesis, firming skin, minimizing lines, wrinkles, and scarring. Micro-needling works at a dermal (deeper) level.
What are Chemical Peels or AHA Peels?
Chemical peels, on the other hand, are superficial resurfacing treatments and work by chemically exfoliating the skin.
Chemical peels improve the appearance of the skin by enhanced exfoliation. Chemical peels work on the surface at the epidermal level.
Chemical peels help to minimize and improve signs of clogging, congestion, acne, open pores, brown spots, pigmentation, sun damage and fine lines.
Microneedling vs Chemical Peels
So when would you choose micro-needling over chemical peels?
If you have post-acne scarring or are showing signs of premature aging with sagging of the skin and deeper wrinkles, then I would choose micro-needling.
If you are showing signs of fine lines, pigmentation, uneven tone, clogging, congestion, open pores or blackheads, then chemical peels would be more suited to you.
Can these modalities be used together?
Not in the same sitting, but certainly if we wish to improve the skin appearance at the surface level, we would recommend a course of peels.
Following that, if the skin needs further rejuvenation treatments, tightening and reducing the appearance of deeper wrinkles, then a course of micro-needling will undoubtedly be beneficial.
I do not, however, recommend these treatments as a "preventative".
Peels and micro-needling are excellent modalities we use to improve skin where it needs it.
But just because a person with damaged skin gains excellent results does not mean a young, healthy skin needs it as a preventative. It's like taking antibiotics when you are not sick.
Healthy skin should focus on "preventative" treatments such as facial treatments infusing vitamins, minerals, peptides, anti-oxidants, cleansing, exfoliating and moisturizing.
Wearing sunscreen every day is perhaps one of the best "preventative" things you can do for healthy and beautiful skin.
And if you have acne, stop picking and squeezing, these are sure ways to scar your skin and then you have a significant problem to treat later.
For any questions, please reach out. Its important that you focus on foundation first, and just like when I learned the fundamentals as a hair colorist - know your foundation and then “break the rules.”
I also suggest speaking with a aesthetician before choosing what modalities are best for you.
All my love and light! Kassandra
Shop Evoq Beauty : http://www.evoqbeauty.com
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